A True 10/10 Hotel
Luca Guadagnino enters the hospitality world with a new hotel in Rome that quickly claimed my highest hotel possible rating.
I’ve stayed at a whole lot of hotels in Italy’s capital city, and I have a whole lot of thoughts about them.
In my opinion, a Great Hotel in Rome should be somewhere both locals and tourists feel inspired and welcome.
In my opinion, a Great Hotel in Rome should feel like an oasis in the city, while being in the middle of it all.
In my opinion, a Great Hotel in Rome should make a great classic pasta.
In my opinion, a Great Hotel in Rome should have history.
In my opinion, a Great Hotel in Rome should represent both the past and the present.
In my opinion, a Great Hotel in Rome should make it easy for anyone to experience La Dolce Vita.
In my opinion, a Great Hotel in Rome should be a place that can only exist in Rome.
In my opinion, Palazzo Talìa has mastered the art of creating a Great Hotel in Rome.
Also, before we continue, in my opinion, a 10/10 rating should only be extended voluntarily – without monetary compensation, prompting, or talking points.
I first saw the name Palazzo Talìa on a hospitality trade newsletter in December 2023. Something about the name and the singular rendering shown signals SPECIAL, in all caps, in my mind. As I’ve mentioned countless times before, my gut instinct is my golden compass, I’m incredibly grateful for it.
I knew this hotel, smack dab in the center of Rome’s historical center, would become the hotel in the city. Of course, I first shared about it here, on Happy Hoteling, at the end of last year. You will always hear it here first.
When I was planning my initial scouting trip to Italy in May, the first property I reached out to was Palazzo Talìa. Above any other hotel in the country, I wanted to stay there. More than any other name, it was my dream partnership. I did not want financial compensation, as I wanted to be able to share my honest experience. As you know, I will do anything and everything not to lose your trust.
Irene, the incredibly lovely Head of Partnerships, was immediately interested, and I was immediately flattered and grateful. I had a handful of other partnerships set up for that initial May trip, but when I had to reschedule for July, the only one I felt compelled to keep was…Palazzo Talìa.
Until I stepped foot through the doors on July 28th, I actually knew very little about the hotel. I just had the gut feeling it was going to be a game-changer. The day before I took the train to Rome, I posted on my Instagram story that I think it had the potential to be my first 10/10 hotel. I was right.
I want to give a bit of context in my Happy Hoteling Rating system. I knew when I implemented ratings, I wanted the highest score, a 10/10 to mean something. Until now, I have had three favorite hotels in the world. While it was pre-score, La Minervetta in Sorrento was the closest to perfect, at a 9.9/10. 1/10th of a point deducted because there is no on-site restaurant, and I wish there were. The Ritz Paris holds a 9.8/10 score, with fractional points deducted for a slight air of snootiness and a highly prohibitive price point. Il Pellicano is tied, but only because of unrivaled Special Factor – the 9.8/10 gets deductions for less-than-fantastic food and good-but-not-great service. I love all three of these hotels a whole lot, but they each have certain faults.
In Rome, as I mentioned, I’ve stayed at a lot of hotels over the course of my life. I really like a lot, love one (Hotel Locarno), but nothing was perfect. In case you were wondering, the latter could use more comfortable beds, better slippers, complimentary breakfast, and slightly warmer service to get closer to 10, the current rating is about a 9.3/10.
Cut to July 28th, a boiling hot day less than two weeks ago. I arrived at Roma Termini station hot but unbothered – I was so excited. The taxi line took an hour, sun beating, and a local reporter tried to interview me to air my grievances. I told her “it’s July!” – I really wasn’t angered. I had places to go! One place, Palazzo Talìa.
The taxi driver didn’t speak a lick of English, and was fresh off smoking his cigar in his car. I guided him to where I needed to be, before he gave me change along with some tobacco flakes from his pocket. Before I had located my bags, an incredibly well-uniformed and appealing man met me at the car, asking if I was Marissa. They had no idea what time I was arriving, in fact we hadn’t been in touch for over a month.
Immediately impressed. And while you’re probably reading this thinking this wouldn’t happen to you, I’m here to correct you. One of their policies, which I think is indicative of the hotel at-large, is to greet every guest as soon as you are in proximity, and see you off until your car is out of sight. They understand the importance of a first and last impression. Their hospitality, above all, is human.
I walked in and immediately felt like Charlie in the Chocolate Factory. My gut was right. This was special.
The front desk team immediately greeted me with such warmth and personality, I instantly felt I had just made new friends. This is something I really look for – a space and respect for individuality of the staff. I do not like standardized, stiff service. To me, that is not luxurious. That does not make me feel at home. It does not give me the space and opportunity for my mind to wander, and my senses to be piqued. It does not allow me to connect with a property and its people. And that’s what I want. That’s what a Great Hotel can give. And that’s what Palazzo Talìa provided with each interaction throughout my 24-hour stay.
Jolanda, a fantastic hire from the front desk, escorted me on a tour of the palazzo. It was built in the year 1630, on the site of the Aqua Virgo aqueduct of Ancient Rome. Naturally, the building’s first life was as a noble residence, but it soon became a school for impoverished children, which evolved into one of the country’s most distinguished educational institutions. It was open for hundreds of years, until it’s final closure in 1999. This history is so unique and carries with it such a palpable air of inspiration and optimism. History rooted in education carries with it incredibly good vibes. Words cannot possibly capture the feeling of standing in the palazzo. It’s moving. It’s exciting. It makes you feel important. At least, it made me feel important. That’s what, above all else, I seek in hotels.
I’ve made it this many paragraphs in without the big name drop (incoming), because I didn’t know about this until I arrived. I knew it was going to be a very, very special hotel, regardless of who was involved.
However, the public spaces (and the Terrace Suite), were all imagined and designed by visionary Italian director, Luca Guadagnino of Call Me By Your Name, Challengers, and I Am Love fame. I’m a huge fan of his work. Huge! And I didn’t know that I was walking on carpets that his eponymous Studio had designed (more on them in a bit). I tried to play it cool, but it was a thrilling realization and an ego boost for my gut instinct.
Looking around the lobby, standing underneath a one-of-a-kind, highly unique Murano chandelier, I felt like I was on the set of my own Roman Holiday. Just like Signore Guadagnino’s work on screen, nothing looked or felt performative, but rather genuinely immersive and inspiring. Roman. Past and present both presiding, in equal and authentic measure. La Dolce Vita epitomized, in every detail. This will be my last comparison, but walking into Claridge’s in London or the Ritz Paris (my favorite in each city), you only feel awe-struck in certain rooms and at specific moments. Not here. It’s everywhere. Always.
From reception, the natural turn is right, leading into a second lobby, but more like a living room. A long couch is the centerpiece, perfectly designed for a solo sit or a side-by-side. Every piece, however, is designed by Studio Luca Guadagnino. There’s a true understanding in the play of textures and shapes and forms. It’s inviting and both inspirational and aspirational – the Luca Guadagnino magic. The archetype for his sets, brought to the stage of reality. On small circular tables lie large newspapers with beautiful old-world hangers. There’s a fantastic array of magazines, wonderfully curated and not too perfect looking as to dissuade you from actually perusing. The lighting is cinematic – a word I will try not to overuse, but I can’t promise. There is color everywhere. In perfect harmony, in ways you wouldn’t expect.
Which brings me to the rugs. The rugs! A journey through the palazzo is one big magic carpet ride. Each room is a different colorful pattern, so plush and light-catching, it’s a very bold move. But also, they’re the most comfortable carpeting I’ve ever stepped foot on. When they later told me there’s memory foam underneath, in addition to the high pile, I was unsurprised because of just how comfortable they are, but incredibly surprised because it’s one huge (extra) undertaking. Because of their plushness, they show every footprint, which requires near-constant upkeep. But upkeep it they do, with not only contagious smiles but a fantastic senses of humor from everyone involved. I really never thought I’d think or talk about hotel rugs this much. But I must.
The non-repetition in the rugs plays to the larger commitment to a concept for every room. As a brand strategist by training, I love a concept. But, it has to be delivered with story and purpose. Done and done. It all flows, flawlessly. Disparate, but each part of the same storyboard.
From the living room, you can walk into one of three portals to the Bar della Musa, which is a true modern marvel. The most epic bar in Rome, for damn sure. I didn’t want to use a potentially-Californian word like epic here, but there is no equal synonym. It’s both incredibly grand and glamorous, but also equally intimate and authentic. It’s a jewel box, and a portal to the ancient past. It’s a place I could sit night after night, it could never lose its luster.
The ceilings have original frescoes, meticulously restored, depicting goddesses – the muses. Each drink has a namesake, with a distinct personality. Yes, I’m talking about an alcoholic beverage, but they’re written as characters on the menu. It’s genius and also somehow perfectly translates in both Italian and English. It turns out that even English can be a romance language when Luca Guadagnino is directing. The signature cocktails will change seasonally, but not tritely so. More in line with their “zero km” philosophy, and the overall Italian belief in dressing for the season. But also, the barmen are capital S Skilled, and can make a truly fabulous cocktail with just a few spoken preferences. I find myself to be quite critical when it comes to non-classic Italian cocktails, but each of mine rivaled the best I’ve had in any US city. I didn’t order a martini because I like mine to be mostly olive juice, which leaves unfair rating grounds.
The specialness of the bar really comes from the details. The tables are made by a blind craftsperson who chooses each table top by touch, and they’re incredible. The walls are made of individually-hammered disco ball squares of sort, dotted with tiny multicolored pastilles. They don’t directly reflect the frescoed ceilings, but rather create a constellation of sorts that magnetically tie you to the room. Happy Hotelers, it is not only the Hotel Bar of hotel bars, but the Bar of all bars.
Now, onto the most magical rooms in the palazzo. They’re found up the stairs, turning left from reception. The staircases have their own fantastic carpeting, and are lined in marble with busts and reliefs around every corner. But then, you get to a landing and look right and, if you’re anything like me…lose it.
As a kid, one of my biggest dreams was to be able to have a sleepover at The Met museum. The Ben Stiller movies added this concept to our collective wishlist, I think. I am here with the news that you can make this dream come true.
To the right of that landing, on the first floor of the palazzo, is a long hallway that is quite literally, a museum. Except it’s not. It’s a hallway in the hotel. But my god, it’s majestic. Lined by busts, each a character to reckon with, ceilings intricately wood-carved and hand-painted – all original, of course. The lighting is like that of the best museums, but designed for real life not mere perusing. One of the rugs runs the length, and marble-framed rooms are speckled along the sides. Taking this hallway in, I thought “this is it, there will never be a hotel wow-factor like this again.”
But then I kept walking. And I audibly gasped. A gilded sign reading “Aula Magna” signaled, what was to me, a religious hotel experience. Towering, dome-like ceilings, marked with an original fresco, picture-perfect windows, magical light, marble on top of marble, busts, sculptural reliefs, a wooden balcony above and intricately tiled floors below. It was incredible. It is incredible. But all of that history, and all of that grandeur met its perfect pairing with Luca Guadagnino’s vision. It’s minimal yet everything. It’s colorful and restrained. It’s…I’m sorry I have to…simply, cinematic. I’m typically a “more is more” girl when it comes to interior design, but when a room is from 1630, in Rome, and comes with such a grand natural presence, it would be sour to reference intermediate eras or dress it in costume. In some ways, I don’t think the interior design genius translates to photo and thus, screen. The details are different. Game-changing.
Until this point in my life, the “happy places” in my mind have always been outdoors. Now, there’s a room too. There are two guest rooms with entrances in the Aula Magna, and if they’re both occupied by people traveling together, the room can be closed to be their own grand living room. It can also be rented as an event space, and whichever Cool Bride does it first, wins major Happy Hoteling brownie points. But the majority of the time, it’s a public space for any guest to enjoy.
The modular brightly-colored couches are the perfect height for observation. I found myself sitting in each (of which there are many), just to see the room from every perspective. I marveled thinking about the generations of students who had sat and studied there, throughout such a vast period of time. The teachers and time transcended. The changing of philosophy and society and identity that had endlessly evolved in this one same place, since 1630.
From the splendor of the first floor, I continued upstairs to the second, down the brightly carpeted but otherwise stark white (a fantastic juxtaposition) hallway to my room. When I was en route to the hotel, I was making mental note of all the things that would have to be present in the room in order for the 10/10 rating I was anticipating to be possible. In most situations, I’m really not all that picky about room amenities, as long as there’s soul. But, that doesn’t mean I’m not taking close note. Most luxury hotels deliver on about 70% of my ideal wishlist – this was 100%.
First off, a pre-air conditioned room. And the perfect temperature, and silent. Then, all the things, things large and small. Great lighting of various types, all easily controlled with labeled switches. An oversized, luxurious bed with a mix of pillows – sizes and firmness and both down and down-alternative. Plugs you don’t have to get out of bed for. Two sizes of (plush, branded) slippers. A good sound system. A complimentary mini bar. An espresso machine that doesn’t require any skill. Pods for said espresso machine, plural. Complimentary water in each form, and a lot of it. Reading material. A great notepad and pen. Intuition everywhere. Every box – tick, tick, tick, and in cursive. Beautifully-framed art, in this case very well-curated vintage photography. A place to work. There were two window seats, one large table, and a small one. Ideal. A luxurious feel but also, but also easy to feel at home. They nailed it. All of it. The “they” here is not Studio Luca Guadagnino.
The director did not design the rooms (except the Terrace Suite), only the common areas. The worlds behind closed doors were the canvas of Mia Home Design Gallery and Laura Feroldi Studio. They did an incredible job. Complementary to the Guadagino design, but each a microcosm of its own. Every piece of furniture was something I’d like for my own home. Very cool and refreshing, but enviably timeless and soulful. Just like the rest of the hotel. A class act of form and function. Restrained, but not minimalist. Good taste on display.
And then there’s the bathroom. It’s cliché, but it was the stuff of dreams. The walls and ceilings hand-painted with a whimsical light green forest of leaves – a true work of art. As was the sink. Hand-carved marble, each one-of-one and unique to every room. Stunning – to the eye and to the touch. But also, oversized and luxurious in the most functional of ways. The floors were a mesmerizing black and white tile that create perfect contrast to the light green painted walls. So many colors and textures and patterns all chosen so carefully, it’s hard to imagine them not all living together.
A 10/10 room must include a 10/10 bathroom, and the amenities that come with that, and the things that often don’t and I really wish did. Like both bar soap and liquid hand soap. Why is the latter such a hard thing to find in an Italian hotel? They understand that, in a large generalization (of which I fit), most women prefer liquid hand soap where men prefer bar. They also understand that the vanity kit should have more rather than less. They have everything you could ever want, all beautifully packaged in a box. Another thing I love – not seeing the amenities. I want to see the craftsmanship! The shower and toilet/bidet are each tucked behind a rippled glass door, each with a wave-shaped handle that added a lot without needing to. That’s the name of the Palazzo Talìa game. They don’t have to go above and beyond, but they did.
Take turn-down service, for example. It’s a whole experience, one that will be hard to beat. Of course, there’s the classic Italian schendiletto, but theirs is quilted. Of course, there is a glass bottle of Acqua Panna left bedside, but they’ve already half-opened it for you so you don’t have to go in search of a bottle opener. Of course, there’s a glass too, but it’s placed exactly where you want it to be (and not where you’ll knock it over), facing downwards, on a coaster. Of course, there’s a sweet treat, but it’s homemade wine-infused cookies I wish I could order in bulk. But the most genius touch was a beautifully-designed checklist sharing they know you’re checking out the next day and want to make sure you don’t forget any of the following. It was wittily-written, clever and helpful.
They even went above and beyond with the elevators. In Rome, there’s a rare dual-existence of indoor and outdoor. They remedied that in the least-obvious place, with window-sided elevators overlooking the large, green terrace. So cool. Speaking of the terrace, it’s extra lovely. While the indoors offer lots of color, the al fresco palette stays white, to play perfect companion to the greenery that permeates throughout. There’s a sculpture alongside a fan mister, another mastery of form and function. You can have eat or drink outdoors, or just lounge. It’s everything you want it to be.
The restaurant, Tramae, helmed by chef Marco Coppola, is beautiful. Mirrored tiles and curtains line the walls, with it’s own signature rug and a legitimately great menu. Great as in the food, but also in the design. Mr. Coppola is also lovely – warm, with a big personality, and happy to invite me into the kitchen, which was utterly spotless. My dinner, which I ate at the bar (as one does solo traveling) was a perfect spaghetti carbonara. If you recall, a Great Hotel in Rome must be able to make a great Roman pasta. They did, to the Nth degree. It was one of the top three I’ve ever had in the city, and I order it a lot. Breakfast was soft scrambled eggs that I’ll dream of, topped with chives, which is my favorite and I didn’t even think to request. The bacon was extra crispy, but not burnt – the American Dream exists in Rome.
In September, when the hotel hard launches, there will be a spa as well, which I’ll have to return soon to see and experience. I know they’ll nail it. The people behind the place are nothing short of world-class.
I was talking to a few members of the team, of different roles and seniorities, and it was such a vibrant, fun conversation. Someone mentioned that it’s really important to allow their staff to be themselves, to share their personalities. Music to my ears. Oh, how so many hotels could learn so much from the Palazzo Talìa playbook. Every human who works at the hotel is entirely different from one another, but all genuinely kind, interesting and interested, with their authentic personality out to play. The team is the sum of it’s parts, each person a pivotal puzzle piece. It makes the magic difference.
Grazie di cuore, to everyone at Palazzo Talìa. You are setting the bar for all hotels in Italy. It’s the most flawless place I’ve ever stayed. I’m eternally grateful to have been one of your first guests. I’ll be a loyalist for life. Alla prossima!
Happy Hoteling Rating: 10/10
P.S.
On the train from Rome to Naples, I wanted to make sure I could substantiate my impression that it was a truly flawless, 10/10 hotel by challenging myself to list 100 things I loved. These weren’t written with the intention of an audience, and I could have rewritten them to sound more…interesting, but I’ve really leaned into honesty and over-sharing on here.
100 Things I Love About Palazzo Talìa
Sense of place – truly and authentically Roman.
Feeling of importance.
History and modernity.
Intuitive service.
A place for personality.
Regal but not formal.
Informality of formal spaces.
Places to want to convene.
Fantastic bar.
Fantastic menu.
Cool crowd.
Clear glass elevators.
Outdoor terrace.
Misters on terrace.
Local craftsmanship.
Past and present in harmony.
Great reading materials.
Great branding.
Complimentary mini bar.
Cool, unique and Roman uniforms.
Complimentary breakfast.
Fantastic breakfast.
Espresso machine in room.
Plenty of espresso pods.
Large tea selection in room.
Two sizes of slippers.
Both liquid and bar hand soap.
Intuitive lighting.
Great in room sound system.
Luxurious sheets.
Comfortable and oversized mattress.
Mix of down and down alternative pillows.
Small pillows for holding.
Schendiletto.
Brilliant turn-down service.
Water placed bedside, cap of glass bottle pre-released.
Welcome treats and bedtime treats you actually want to eat.
Hardwood floors in rooms.
Separate toilet.
Idea placement of toilet paper.
Rain shower.
Luxurious bathroom.
Hand-painted murals in bathroom.
Intuitive and plentiful toiletries.
Individually-designed rooms.
Good hair dryer.
Unique, real art, framed beautifully.
Plugs and switches at both bedsides.
Silent AC.
Easy AC.
Both notepad and notebook, with pen.
High-quality bath products.
Memory foam under carpets.
Precious things ungraciously treated.
Breakfast until 11:30am.
Plentiful closet space.
Central, highly-walkable location.
Great soundtrack.
Great copywriting.
Unique cocktails.
Great liquor selection.
Great lighting.
Intuitive signage.
Every guest treated equally.
Great aperitivo snacks.
The public is welcome for drinks or meals.
A meeting place for locals and tourists alike.
No name tags.
1 liter bottle of water waiting in room, with plenty more in mini fridge.
Packing list placed at bedside at turndown service.
Fantastic carbonara.
Flawless Italian to English translation.
Real art.
Stories behind the materials.
Original frescoes.
Spearing ceilings.
Awe around every corner.
Inspiring hallways.
Spaces flow naturally.
Carpet unique in every room.
Museum lighting without red tape.
One-of-one marble in each bathroom.
Not just cool, but comfortable furniture.
Authentically diverse staff.
Unique label of welcome champagne.
Pristine kitchen.
Staff has deep knowledge of building past and present.
All craftspeople and partners are Roman.
Family-owned.
Perfect scrambled eggs and perfectly crisp bacon (without asking).
Clear respect between levels of staff.
History present even in the garden.
Not copying anyone or anything.
Current but timeless.
Luxurious yet inviting.
Cinematic to the core.
Seamless mixing of creative visions.
Competitively priced.
The stay has stuck with me (big time).
There wasn’t a single detail that was less than fantastic.
I will be sharing all the video content on Instagram throughout the coming weeks – I think the hotel is best captured in video and written form, if you can’t experience it first-hand. I highly recommend doing so, and even going out of your way for it.
HAPPY HOTELING, you Good People with Good Taste!
Thank you so much for being here, this wouldn’t have been possible without you.
xx Your Penpal,
Marissa
Just booked Palazzo Talìa for two nights during our upcoming January trip! Thank you sooo much for this incredible description, and motivation to splurge a little. I cannot WAIT!
Your publication is now my holy grail.
Wow… just wow… so insightful and well written 🥹 super grateful for the gods of the algorithm that suggested me this 🙏