Five Frivolities: November 26
A guide to Careyes, where to stay in Le Marche (Italy), my hotel choices in the Alps, a foodie Italian's guide to her favorite restaurants in Italy, my 5 star reads of the year (of 100)
A postcard from Careyes, Mexico
Yesterday, I left one of the most special places I’ve ever been. 5 days in Careyes, on the Costalegre in Jalisco in Mexico, is the absolute best place to get re-inspired and truly disconnect. A private community, with one hotel (that needs so much renovation I would highly not recommend staying) lots of huge Architectural Digest-worthy homes, and a little community of colorful casitas (which is what we rented).
Gian Franco Brignone, an Italian man from Torino (Turin), is the mastermind behind this place. In the 60s, he flew over the undeveloped jungle beach land, and decided he was going to make it a very special place. And that’s exactly what he did, slowly, and with complete care for the natural ecosystem and environment.
The people that own homes here come from around the world - many European, many South American, some American, and many Mexican as well. This is where the 1% (which I am so very much not a part of) come to be normal people in peace and privacy. Yes, many celebrities too.
Restaurants are few and far between, and most definitely not the main draw. The draw is the indescribable energy, the inspiration radiating throughout the color at every corner, and the immensely beautiful beaches (perfect for swimming). Any Careyes questions? Pop it in the comments, and I’ll answer.
The TLDR: To eat, our two favorites were Playa Rosa and Lilo Beach Club. We didn’t get to Casa de Nada, but everyone loves it, too. Yes, you need a car. It’s easiest to drive into Manzanillo airport and rent a car there, but since flights are limited, we flew into Puerto Vallarta, rented a car, and drove the 3 hours to Careyes. No, sadly you cannot come into Careyes without staying here. The casita we stayed in, booked via AirBnB is this and we looooved it.
Where to stay in Le Marche, Italy
To non-Italians, Le Marche is typically an uncharted destination. Located on the east side of the country, not too north nor too south, above Puglia and below Emilia Romagna. It’s known for great wine, charming old villages, and quaint, affordable beach towns. Notoriously, there are not any true trueee luxury hotels in the area (or at least not any Happy Hoteling-approved ones), so boutique is the way. Specifically, the following three hotels.
I Cucali is a bed and breakfast with charming rooms, a homey interior design disposition and is in a beach town. Something I had trouble finding in Le Marche for…years!
Filodivino is inland in Le Marche, set among vineyards. Thus, yes, it is a wine resort, which is always a pro in my mind. A very cool (and photogenic pool), simple but stylish rooms, a spa and supposedly great restaurant. It’s most definitely Happy Hoteling approved!
Lastly, Tenuta Santi Giacomo e Filippo, which is also a wine resort (and also inland). Each room unique, but it’s about the rest of the property. Many Italians with good taste who I trust have stayed here - a good sign.
Where I’d stay for ski, part 3
The final installment of my series on where I’d personally stay in popular vacation destinations, today we’re finally in the Alps.
Badrutt’s Palace (my #1 bucket list hotel in the Alps) or Suvretta House in St Moritz
Airelles Courchevel or Hôtel des 3 Vallées in Courchevel
Le Grand Bellevue, The Alpina or Gstaad Palace in Gstaad
My Caprese best friend’s favorite restaurants in Italy
When I was 11, I met one of my lifelong best friends on her home turf of Capri. Stefanie Celio is a local legend and I’m so proud to call her a best friend. She’s a true Caprese, who lives there year-round and is 3rd generation on the island. Her grandparents used to own the biggest nightclub on the island, her uncle owns a bar/restaurant, her cousin another restaurant, and most imporantly she has the best cooking school on the island - The Blue Kitchen. DM her on Instagram to book a traditional Caprese cooking class with her (at her home) that is undoubtedly a fan-favorite Capri experience. You’ll learn closely-guarded family recipes for ravioli alla Caprese, torta Caprese, and a few little surprises.
Stefanie and I travel together, we’re in Mexico right now, and she was gracious enough to share some of her favorite restaurants in Italy. She’s a true foodie, but not the kind who likes foam - the kind who’s highly picky and loves both authentic and experimental. Give her a follow on Instagram here, and her account for The Blue Kitchen here. For her guide to all the best hikes on Capri (the only local’s guide to hikes on the island I know to exist) in my Comprehensive Guide to Capri here. Substack subscribers get 20% off with code YAYFRIENDS until December 1st.
Now, the restaurant recs:
Rome: Piperno (my favorite restaurant in all of Italy, too!), Hostaria Costanza, Enoteca l’Antidoto (wine bar and small bites), Dal Bolognese, Checco er Carettiere
Florence: La Giostra, Trattoria Cammillo (my favorite too), Harry’s Bar (an institution), Buca Lapi, and if you’re over the Florentine steak, then Fuor d’Acqua for fish. Also, for truffle lovers, you must go to Procacci (which has been around since 1885) for truffle anything and everything with a glass of Prosecco (if you go for breakfast, a mini truffle croissant is a must)
Milan: Trattoria Madonnina, Da Giacomo, Osteria del Ponte, and Tipografia Alimentare for a wine bar. Another thing she loves, going a bit outside the city to a cascina (an old rural farmhouse) for lunch. Her choice, Al Garghet
Sorrento (and nearby): Don Vito (in Marina Puolo), Cucú, Donna Sofia, Bar Fauno, Leonelli Beach, Maria Grazie in Nerano
I’ve read 100 books this year, these are what I’ve rated 5 stars
Thriller/Mystery:
Pretty Girls by Karin Slaughter
The Unmaking of June Farrow by Adrienne Young
Midnight is the Darkest Hour by Ashley Winstead
None of This Is True by Lisa Jewell
Where Are The Children? by Mary Higgins Clark
Where Are The Children Now? by Mary Higgins Clark and Alafair Burke
The Only One Left by Riley Sager
The Writing Retreat by Julia Bartz
All the Dangerous Things by Stacy Willingham
Non-Fiction:
On All Fronts: The Education of a Journalist by Clarissa Ward
What My Bones Know: A Memoir of Healing from Complex Trauma by Stephanie Foo
Romance or Beach Read:
Summer Sisters by Judy Blume
Romantic Comedy by Curtis Sittenfeld
Love and Other Words by Christina Lauren
Something Wilder by Christina Lauren
Happy Place by Emily Henry
Part of Your World by Abby Jimenez
After I Do by Taylor Jenkins Reid
The Rewind by Allison Winn Scotch
Vacationland by Meg Mitchell Moore
xx Your Penpal,
Marissa