The Edit: Volume 10
In residence with Alexis Charbeneau, the perfect Swiss summer weeklong itinerary, The A-Z of Happy Hoteling, and my link loves
In Residence with Alexis Charbeneau
I think Alexis was my first “mutual” on TikTok. I loved her from the first video I saw, where she shared her life as an American mom in Barcelona. She’s real, she’s cool, she’s a kick-ass mom, and I trust her to tell us anywhere and everywhere that we need to know about in her home of 9 years. Consider this the ultimate local’s guide to Barcelona, where she shares all the places we actually want to know, not the ones that people think we want. I’m so grateful for this invaluable info, Alexis. I’m due for a trip to Barcelona, and it’s time to treat you to a cocktail and then play with the kids while you and Dylan (her lovely husband) go out.
Follow her on TikTok - you will fall in love fast, just like myself. I don’t think people say “girl crush” anymore, but it’s applicable here. She has die-hards.
Alexis Charbeneau’s Local Guide to Barcelona
Best time to visit? May/June or Sept/Oct
Favorite neighborhood? Eixample L'squerra. It's like the West Village if this were NY. The best gays, restaurants, bars, bakeries and shops.
Favorite restaurants? Sensei Gourmet Tapas. Bar Bocata. Bar Cañete for lunch. Xiringuito Escriba for paella. Estimar for fish. Bar Mut for Spanish. There are lots of great places that don't take reservations, and I’d never recommend anyone stand in line for anything – too much good food here. For when you’re over Spanish food: Robata for the best sushi, La Balabusta for the best Mediterranean food, Parking Sotano for the best steak.
Best bakeries? L'Obrador. Hoffman for croissants. Lady Babka. Boldu. Baulard. Oz Bakery. Lots of amazing bakeries in BCN, not to be slept on!
Best cocktails? Hemingway, Nola, Paradiso (always a line so grease the doorman for fast entrance), Stravinsky.
Musts in BCN? Seeing the inside of Sagrada Familia. An audio tour of Casa Battlo. Walk thru old town and do La Boqueria market. Sit in a square in Gracia after discovering the village-like town. Take a train to Costa Brava!!! RENT A VESPA AND SEE THE CITY OR go cars is a cool yellow mini car you can take around and the car tells you everything as you drive.
Anything overrated? Park Guell. Beaches that are in the city other than Playa Bogatell – this is the only beach I hang at. Casa Mila u can skip. Montjuïc skip too.
A must-ask, favorite hotels? I love the Majestic Hotel for its old charm service. Hotel Fuster is beautiful and well-located. Cotton House has the most beautiful terrace in all of BCN. I like hotels outside of downtown. My favorite is the Gran Florida La Hotel but it's too far uptown – Obama stays when he comes to be away from the crowds. Hotel Claris is an amazing part of town, small boutique with two-level rooms – highly recommend.
Favorite local Costa Brava stays? There's an amazing place, Hotel Santa Marta, 45 min from Barcelona. Family-owned, 5-star, on the beach, and so much charm. I adore it.
Lastly, any family-friendly recs for parents? Cituadella park in Born - ride the boats. And then the zoo is right there. It's a sad zoo but if you want to kill the day in one area it's a good idea. Take a soccer ball to paella lunch at Xiringuito Escriba and hang on the beach with it after lunch. Take a soccer ball to a plaza in Gracia and get a drink while the kids play as Spanish kids do. There's a Gaudi scavenger hunt people really like. Paella cooking class is always a fun day activity. Or, take the train to Sitges for the day.
You’re the absolute best. Thank you to infinity and beyond, Alexis!! x
My Perfect Swiss Summer Week by Train
To give context to The Switzerland Hotel List, that came out for paid subscribers this week, it’s itinerary time. My ideal summer week spent in Switzerland, traveled (mostly) by train.
Fly into Zurich and spend the first night at Signau House, setting the mellow and magical tone for the trip. A Grand Tour of sorts, but in a week. Well, 8 nights - a week off work.
Your first leg is Zurich HB to Interlaken Ost, on a direct train which takes two hours. In Interlaken, you’ll take the ferry to Giessbach See, home of your magical, old-world hotel for three nights, Grandhotel Giessbach. I think Lake Brienz is a true gem, and the Grandhotel gets you complimentary access on the gondola and boats on the lake. Take the time to explore the towns of Interlaken, Brienz, Iseltwald, hiking, but mostly - LIVING!
Then, you’re off farther up into the Bernese Oberland, into the Lauterbrunnen Valley. First, from Interlaken Ost to Lauterbrunnen, then on the Wengernalp Railway to Kleine Scheidegg, the station right by your home for three nights, Hotel Bellevue des Alpes. A magical, old-world hotel with a great restaurant and easy access via the railway to Wengen and Murren. Hikers, this is your heaven. But also walkers, observers, photographers…anyone and everyone. Unless you need to be close to a hospital, in which case…this isn’t your trip, sadly.
Lastly, either you’ll need to change trains a few times or hire a private driver to take you to your stop for your last night, on Lake Geneva - the home of my Hotel Book, Grand Hotel du Lac. You fly out of Geneva.
The A-Z of Happy Hoteling
For no reason at all besides I thought this was fun. Many letters I could go on and on, but I went with top of mind for all.
A is for Adrere Amellal, Auberge de la Maison, and (L’)Andana
B is for Borgo Santo Pitetro, Badrutt’s Palace, Brown’s and the Balmoral
C is for Claridge’s, Cuixmala, Caesar Augustus, and (The) Carlyle
D is for Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn and Dar Ahlam
E is Ett Hem, Eden Rock, and Estelle Manor
F is for (The) Fife Arms, (Villa) Feltrinelli, and (El) Fenn
G is for the Grand Hotels of the world! But also, (The) Greenbrier, the Gasparilla Inn, and Goldeneye
H is for Huka Lodge and Hotel Sacher
I is for (Villa) Igiea and Izza
J is for Jacks Camp, Jake’s Treasure Beach and Jumby Bay
K is for Kisawa Sanctuary, Kamalame Cay, and Kona Village
L is for Locanda Rossa, Lupaia, (Hotel) Locarno and (Hotel) Lungarno
M is for Marbella Club, (La) Minerva, and (La) Minervetta
N is for Nick’s Cove, Nordelaia, and Nimmo Bay
O is for Ojo Caliente
P is for (Il) Pellicano and Punta Tragara
Q is for Quinta da Côrte, Quinta da Comporta, and Qambani
R is for Reschio, Ritz Paris, and Regina Isabella
S is for Splendido, Santavenere, Sextantio, and Son Net
T is for Tenuta di Murlo, The Point, Twin Farms, and Thyme
U is for Urraca Private Island, Ullikana, and UXUA
V is for Vermelho, Vermejo, and Villa TreVille, Verana
W is for Wentworth Mansion and the White Barn Inn
X is for Xigera Lodge and Xinalani
Y is for Yayaki, (Casa) YOUM, (Six Senses) Yao Noi
Z is for Zero George and Zeavola
Link Loves
This is the coolest version of a white button down that I’ve ever seen
These striped shorts are so cool - I’d size up and wear oversized
If you like your bikinis teeny-tiny like myself, and with vertical straps instead of a halter, this is a contender for the perfect simple suit - top, bottoms
I love moiré as a fabric, and it seems brilliant to have it as the material for a very good ballet flat - brown or pink to pick from
On the friulane front, Vibi Venezia is my favorite and these are the perfect summer satin, or contrasting canvas
That’s all folks! Thank you for being here. Thank you for trusting me. Thank you for taking time out of your Sunday to sit down with me and talk travel. Happy Hoteling, you good people with good taste!
xx Your Penpal,
Marissa
A-Zs ! I die!