This Italian Summer, Part IV
The one about Panarea.
Today is all about Panarea. It’s small but man, it packs a punch. And yes, of any other island I’ve been to in Italy (9!), it’s the closest in feeling to my beloved Capri. It’s a test of a new way of reporting on a destination, where everything is all one narrative. The hotel review is woven throughout, and this one is especially charming. Plus, all about the F It Day.
This was a good writing week – I loved writing it and I hope that comes through.
For Consideration
With this quick Californian pause, I’ve been able to make my favorite summer snack or salad, if you’re loose with the definition as I am. At pretty much every Whole Foods (slash most grocery stores) in the olive bar they have an assortment of olives and feta with herbs and oil. That and some watermelon (I always do pre-cut), in a bowl, topped with a shake or two of chili flakes, and a drizzle each of olive oil and honey. So good.
The World’s Most Beautiful Hotels of 2025 were announced by Versailles Prix, and Palazzo Talìa made the cut, among a handful of others that are frequent names on here and others that are not and won’t be.
I’ve done a lot of reading since my last book report, so a second is coming soon, but in the meantime, What Kind of Paradise by Janelle Brown and The Ghostwriter by Julie Clark are my two favorite books of the year so far.
First images are in for the buzziest new hotel opening in Charleston in a few years, The Nickel Hotel. It’s cool, very easy on the eyes, but I will say you can slightly detect that they were trying to be described in these ways.
There’s a new pop-up bar and restaurant on the rooftop of Il Capri Hotel, and they have a solid list of DJ programming of the summer. The local food report isn’t great but people don’t go there to eat, they go to dance. I’ve had an internet crush on Giotto Calendoli since about 2012 and he’s hosting one – maybe I will attend a group event for the first time.
I thoroughly enjoyed the tv show The Better Sister, on Amazon Prime Video. A good psychological sister thriller.
I wrote a whole intro about how sickened I am by what’s going on in California from the perspective of how much immigrants contribute to not only the state but the country and the world, but I decided to leave it up to you – if you’d like me to share, I will in the comments (let me know there, too).
For Consumption
These La Veste striped bomber jackets are just about as good as a jacket can get.
This forever cool JPG double-layer tank.
My obsession of a very expensive t-shirt.
Very chic shorts.
An actually interesting denim dress that’s great for both a city & beach vacation.
This is my second swimsuit procurement for the summer.
This completely unnecessary tote that I can’t stop thinking about.
Coming Soon
All about my time on Filicudi, in a narrative form like today’s Panarea story, unless everyone ends up hating it. There is a cigarette barter system that runs the monetary exchange on that island – it’s an island ripe for writing.
My full Sicilian Itinerary, including hotel price breakdowns, and what I would do differently.
A guide to selecting which Sicilian island is right for you.
A return to Capri, and then, the return to Florence.
Stuff about the rest of the world too, but I’m really enjoying writing more heavily on experience.
Happy Hoteling!
Capri’s Sicilian Cousin
With a very charming hotel
Growing up spending summers in Capri, every once in a while I would overhear the word Panarea. For a long time I was unsure if they were talking about a now-defunct (and reborn) Caprese nightclub with a similar name, or mispronouncing the soup and sandwich chain.
And then I kind of forgot about it, until about five years ago. Since then, I’ve felt that familiar instinctual pull that will itch until it’s scratched. Like Ponza.
But then strangers on the internet told me that visiting late-May was only for those who didn’t want the real experience, nothing would be open. Some places, I think of this as a good thing. But since it was long compared to Capri, a place where I would never recommend going when everything isn’t open, I was torn. I wavered on my itinerary, tempted to cancel this stop. Ultimately, I flip-flopped too long in my mind and the hotel cancellation period passed. I was going to Panarea.
I was arriving on the island via a 30-minute ferry from Salina, where as you last read it was all about the land, less about town culture. I had written in my journal the night before that god Salina was incredible, but I missed talking.
As the aliscafo approached, I saw a scene that’s familiar and beloved to me – a bustling, charming port. Lots of talking!
Of course, I started comparing the island to Capri, and Procida, and Ponza, and Giglio in my mind. The most charming aspect of Giglio, in my mind, is the picturesque port, and it was not dissimilar to that. Where the approach to Ponza, Procida, and Giglio is candy-colored, this was a beautiful wash of white, but in the same hue of charm. And while Capri probably towers the island in comparison, it had the same slight bustle and shadow of style. I already loved Panarea.
I had arrived on the traghetto, which is the slower ferry that carries cars as well. They are the lifeline and portal to the outside world for islands like this. I love to watch the trade and this form of hustle and bustle.
Especially here, where the vehicles that everything was being unloaded onto were golf carts and Apes. On one, a singular huge bag of clams was put on the bed, my kind of precious cargo.